Special Yellowstone NP Tour

Today about 18 women took a tour of Yellowstone NP. This was arranged by Renee Evanoff, a local artist, and Jim Evanoff, Environmental Manager for the park.The elk are in rut now and we watched a magnificent bull elk herd his harem and bugle his call. Other bull elk were in the vicinity, but they were younger and smaller and would have been no match in a fight to challenge the big guy's claim to the females.

~~~~~ This bison found a good scratching post. ~~~~~

Jim informed us that the Yellowstone bison have bigger humps between their shoulders than the bison of the plains. During the harsh winter, they have to move their massive heads back and forth to clear the deep snow so they can find food. This causes a build-up of the muscles that support the neck.

Visitors aren't allowed to remove anything from the park, so it was interesting to see several huge elk antlers laying on the ground from the annual shed or from the remains after the death of the animal. Smaller animals chew on these for the mineral content, so it's an important part of the eco-system. There are about 57 different types of beetles that feed off an elk carcass, and only one is a meat eater. The others eat different things, such as the micro-organisms that appear during decomposition.

Monitoring the Fire

The Derby Mountain fire started over a week ago and has spread toward Big Timber and the Boulder Valley, burning almost 200,000 acres and destroying at least 20 homes. So far, Val's ranch is safe but we wanted to take the 4-wheeler out to the farthest hilltop to monitor the fire's spread.

The wind had kicked up when we reached a lookout point and we could see the fire in the distance - about a half dozen different locations. We watched great plumes of smoke billow up as the wind pushed the fire ahead, but Val thought the ranch would be safe.

We drove around thousands of acres for 3-4 hours. Val has mostly red angus cattle and the neighboring rancher has mostly black angus, so we checked to see if any of the cattle got mixed up when the fence was broken recently. Saw several fairly fresh piles of bear scat, but no sightings of Teddy. The choke cherries are very abundant this year and we could see that the bear was feasting on the bounty.

There were a couple of 'sheepherders monuments' up on a ridge. These are stone cairns that sheepherders built long ago - probably out of boredom from the monotony of the job.

The scent of sage was lovely when we drove through large patches of it. I stopped to pick some big bundles, along with some juniper branches so I can tie together small bundles for myself and friends.

Swimmer!

Val bought a Poke Boat from a guy in Billings recently, so we paddled the Yellowstone River today to try it out. We put-in at Springdale and paddled down to Grey Bear fishing access site - about 10 miles.

None of us had paddled this section of river before and the lower water level caused more rapids than we had expected. I saw Val go around the corner of a gravel bar, then paddle like hell to get over to the right of the rapids. Cassandra was next, but couldn't avoid the rapids and bounced through them. I paddled through a line of rapids spread out across the river, then... Yikes! - I plunged down into a big trough. I paddled hard to get through, then got pounded by the next section of rapids.

When I was almost through the rough water, I looked up and saw the bottom of Cassandra's kayak ahead. She had hit a rock and flipped. I kept watching for her to pop up and it seemed like a LONG time before she finally did. By the time I reached her she had made it to the shallows - very out of breath and frightened because she couldn't get out from under the boat right away. The current grabbed the overturned kayak out of her grip and it floated downstream. I was able to catch up with it and maneuver it into the eddy, then pull it onto the beach to drain the water.

It was a good place to stop for lunch and let the adrenalin rush subside. We agreed that we don't want to paddle that section again soon. We're all leisure paddlers and don't really want to challenge big rapids - wildlife viewing is more our style. Val sure got to test the maneuverability of her new boat and she's very pleased with her purchase.

Goodbye, Little Pepper

Pepper has been Judy's faithful friend and traveling companion for seventeen years. She used to travel extensively with Judy when she went on tour or was away teaching at her 'Women Making Music' retreats. Little Pepper went to the big doghouse in the sky today and Judy is very sad.

New Garden

Judy planted a lawn and garden since I was here last and I want to show off the results. Perhaps you need to be familiar with the previous weeds and mud to appreciate the change, but it's quite charming. I'm staying in this cabin behind her house. The birds love the sunflowers and Hallie, Judy's new pound-dog, chases butterflies through the garden.

An Evening at the Ranch

Cassandra's friends, Celia and Mariquita, are visiting from California and Val invited us over to dinner at her ranch. The flock of wild turkeys has been hanging around waiting for apples to fall off the heavily ladened trees and Cassandra collected a handful of handsome turkey feathers.

There are a couple of calves living in Val's front yard because they're orphaned and need the special feedings that Val gives them every day. Three cows died during calving season after eating some poisonous weeds. One of the calves found a surrogate cow mama, but the other two depend on Val for nutritious supplements to their grazing.

Dinner was delicious of course. Val provided her grass-fed beef steaks and we all potlucked various vegie dishes and apple pie dessert. I forgot to bring a chicken breast to BBQ, but there were ample side dishes and I ate hearty.

Floating the Yellowstone

It was a perfect day to be on the river - warm temperatures and no wind. We met at Dee Dee and Ursula's place at noon, then drove down the Paradise Valley to Mallards Rest fishing access to put-in. Holly and Rosemary each had a kayak; Dee Dee and Ursula paddled their SOAR inflatable canoe, and Val and I shared my inflatable Sea Eagle PaddleSki - a combination kayak/catamaran.

The mild rapids and balmy air made for leisurely paddling. We saw several osprey and a bald eagle and also sighted a now-empty 'rookery' - several trees with multiple nests for raising avian families.

We stopped to eat lunch on a gravel bar and, as we were sitting there, we saw Velma rowing down the river in her oar boat with a few other women. We all know Velma, so Ursula said, "Let's moon them!" So we did... six women in our 50's and 60's dropped our pants and bent over and smiled. The women in the oar boat cheered us, then lifted their shirts and flashed us as they floated by.

Just before take-out, we had to negotiate a narrow chute at the end of a shallow dam. We had checked it out before and it looked pretty easy - however, it's hard to see the narrow passage until you're right up on it. Ursula was able to stand in the canoe to get a better look and she and Dee Dee slipped through easily; Rosemary and Holly made it OK too. Val and I had hung back so as not to crowd the kayaks and when we started through, I saw that we were too far to the left and one pontoon floated up over a barely-submerged cement ledge and caused us to flip.

I popped up at the back of the overturned boat and Val immediately surfaced, laughing at the same time. We pulled onto a gravel bar to upright the boat and were pleased that we didn't lose any gear. Later we learned that Rosemary had tried to duck some over-hanging brush and tipped her kayak. Holly-the-fish swam out to help her get to shore.

We hung our wet gear and clothes all over Ursula and Dee Dee's fence to dry, then opened the beer and wine and enjoyed a delicious BBQ meal. Val is a cattle rancher and had brought some grass-fed beef steaks for the meat eaters, and Jake-the-dog used every shred of willpower not to jump on the table and nab a prize.

Dee Dee and Ursula just returned from backpacking in Wyoming and they found a spinning reel and rod that someone had left behind. When I mentioned that I had just bought a fishing license, they gave me the found gear. Cool!

Age Has Its Benefits

Today is my 62nd birthday and it's the first time in decades that I haven't minded getting older. Today's birthday qualifies me for 3 new benefits:

1. I start collecting Social Security
2. I'm eligible for a Golden Age Passport - $10 for a lifetime pass = free admission to the National Parks and 1/2 price camping at many FS campgrounds. This was a gift from my camping buddies, Holly and Rosemary. I hopped on my bike and rode down to the Forest Service office to make my special purchase.
3. Montana fishing license is only $8 for MT residents age 62 and over.

Mom and Dad left a phone message singing 'Happy Birthday' to me off-key (It's a family custom to sing the HB song off-key.)

Dear friends - Goode and Cassie - each called to wish me HB. These friendships date back to the late 60's when we were nurses together at San Francisco General. I haven't seen either of them for years and we vowed to get together when I'm back in the Bay Area around the holidays.

Cassandra and Val planned a dinner for me and also invited our friends, Rosemary and Holly. It was a Great Day!

Camping at Cassandra's

I arrived back in Big Timber today! One of Cassandra's employees from the North 40 is living in the cabin for another week, so I'll be camped out back until she leaves to go back to college.
This spot below Cassandra's house is very peaceful, with a view of the Crazy Mountains in the distance and a short walk to the river below.

That's Cassandra's new addition to her house on the left above my van. I'll be spending weeks painting the inside for her - and maybe the exterior too. The cabin where I'll be staying (behind Judy's house) is on the right.

Grand Tetons and Yellowstone

I woke up to the sound of rapids on the Gros Vente River about 3 miles from Kelly (near Jackson, WY). This is a favorite boondock spot for me when I'm passing through the area. I explored a couple more miles up the road and found another nice spot overlooking the river where I may stay next time. Both spots are only suitable for a small rig like mine.

Yesterday afternoon I passed several bison on the way here.

The Tetons are beautiful peeking out above the clouds.

I always enjoy driving through Yellowstone NP and I stopped near a river for a couple of hours to eat lunch and watch the elk graze. The whole Grand Teton-Yellowstone area is a magnificent feast for my eyes.

Greys River

The Greys River was a place where Rosemary and Holly had been wanting to fish for years. From Kemmerer in SW Wyoming, we drove north on 189, then took the dirt and gravel La Barge Road toward Alpine. It's a gorgeous area and the wildflowers were fab. There's a lot of dispersed camping along the river and we found a lovely spot under some trees along the river. H and R caught some trout and we cooked them over a campfire. We parted company in the morning as they needed to get back to Montana sooner than me.

Heading North

After the rally, we headed up 550 from Silverton and stopped to get a temporary fishing license so Holly and Rosemary could fish in Wyoming on the way back to Montana. We drove through Grand Junction, CO and, at the time, I didn't know that my nephew would be coming here from Germany as an exchange student. I would have checked out the town more.

From I-70 we took the scenic route up 139 through NW Colorado and found a nice place to boondock off a dirt road near Douglas Pass - more BLM land. We kept hearing an animal noise coming from up the hill, but couldn't spot anything with our binoculars. Holly thought it might be a mountain lion calling to her cubs, but we also thought it might be a young elk calling for its mama.

Sportsmobile Rally 2006

Our base camp is at beautiful Molas Lake and there are 100 rigs and about 200 people participating. Fat City Catering out of Moab, UT is providing meals again, but unfortunately Roger is retiring and this is his last gig catering for the rallies.

Lined up at Molas Lake before the trail rides

This year I'm riding with Holly and Rosemary instead of driving my own van on the trails. Some of the drop-offs on these rough, narrow roads are nerve-wracking for the passenger who has to look at the 1,000 foot drop just a couple of feet away from the tires.

Rosemary gets dizzy and nauseated from this kind of scene, so I'm navigating for Holly. I did these trails when I first started traveling in my Sportsmobile, so it's great to be able to enjoy the scenery this time.

A group returning from the Cinnamon Pass tour

Beautiful wildflowers near Cinnamon Pass

Some of the terrain on the Alpine Loop reminded me of the Arctic. A sign indicated that the tundra here is similar to that found in the Arctic. It made me feel nostalgic for my Alaska trip last month.

Silverton, CO

Silverton used to be a big mining town north of Durango. The town has been gussied up for tourists and is a now a favorite destination for 4x4 rides through the beautiful San Juan Mountains.

I drove up to Molas Lake to check out the campground where the Sportsmobile Rally will be held starting tomorrow. Meanwhile, I'm boondocking on BLM land at Mineral Creek. Holly and Rosemary came down from Montana in their SMB and met me here today. We'll camp together at the rally too.

The Loneliest Highway

Highway 50 through Nevada is called 'America's loneliest highway'. I love this stretch of road for that reason - there's hardly any traffic. I put the van in cruise-control, load up my CD player or tune-in Sirius satellite radio, blast the music, and sing my way across the state. Sometimes the desert is glorious with the yellow blooms and the bright green of new growth. After a rain, I roll down the windows and take in the delicious, pungent scent of sage. The road travels over several beautiful mountain passes for a cooler and different change of scenery - juniper and pinion pine forests.

~~~ NV desert in spring ~~~

~~~ NV desert in winter ~~~

There are several places along Highway 50 where I've stopped for a rest or to spend the night. All are free and have toilet facilities.

- Sand Mountain - 25 miles E of Fallon

- about 20 miles E of Sand Mtn, turn R on 722. There are a couple of places on the R within 10-15 miles. 722 joins 50 again just beforeAustin.
- Bob Scott NF c.g. - about 10 miles E of Austin; closed in winter,but there is a spot just before the gate where a small rig can tuck inbetween the trees.
- Hickison Petroglyph c.g. - between Austin and Eureka.
- Illiapah Reservoir c.g. - about 35 miles W of Ely

Heat Wave

I started to leave California last week, but the temperature was in the 100's and I just didn't feel like driving through the Nevada desert during this heat wave. Instead, I stopped at the Ponderosa TTN c.g. in the foothills of the Sierras near Placerville and found a nice spot right on the South Fork of the American River. I love the sound of the rapids and it was a bit cooler by the river. Pretty much I just rolled out my awning and sat in the shade reading for a few days - too hot for anything else.

The heat continued, so I drove higher up the mountain on I-80 and stayed at Snowflower TTN c.g. for another couple days until the temps started dropping and I felt like crossing the desert. I know I could have just turned the AC on and driven across the state, but I really prefer driving with the windows down so I can smell the sage and breathe real air.

Today I stopped at Trader Joe's and Wild Oats Natural Foods in Reno, NV to stock up on food for the next couple of weeks.

Imbedded In My Soul

This journal is my rendition of our time spent in the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. However, the true essence of my experience is far beyond words and is forever blended with my spirit.

Sometimes I felt so overwhelmed by the beauty and magnificence of the land and it's creatures, that all I could do was absorb the scene with tears running down my face. Being able to have such an intimate experience of this special place was a blessing and an honor.
Words don't do justice
Heart, spirit, psyche feel deep
Talk is not my truth

Susan

Susan Delisa was a gift from Ramona - who didn't have another female river guide on her staff, so she asked her paddling buddy to fill in. Susan has a PhD in Biology and was very generous about sharing her knowledge of the various plants and flowers in the region.

She has developed the classes, 'Natural History of Alaska' and 'Marine Biology', which are taught through the Center for Distance Education at the University of Alaska-Fairbanks. Susan is also an accomplished bodywork practitioner, blending various disciplines - including neuromuscular therapy and myofascial work.

~~~~~~~~~~~~ Tres Chic ~~~~~~~~~~~~
Generous teacher
Leaves gentle wave in her wake
Just keep on paddlin'

Carol

Carol Scott was our guide and our buddy on the backpacking portion of the trip. She moves naturally and comfortably in the wilderness and we always felt confident with her leadership.
During the school year, she teaches science to junior high school students in Fairbanks. Carol is originally from Britain, but you wouldn't guess it until she pronounces 'water'.... waw-tuh. ;-)

And she's a pilot too! Here she is with her own airplane - a Piper Pacer.
Pathfinder sister
Meets challenges with finesse
Packs a mean pantry

Ramona

Ramona Finnoff was highly recommended by others who have participated in her trips, and she has been the owner of ABEC's Alaska Adventures since 1980. The bush pilots who flew us in and out of the Arctic also had high praise for her, so we began our journey knowing that we had teamed up with the best.

When we asked Ramona the meaning of the letters ABEC, she smiled and said... 'Always Bring Extra Chocolate'. Good motto, Ramona!

Ramona is totally cool on the river and makes guiding the boat look effortless. She knows the Kongakut area well and led us on some incredible hikes.
Extraordinary
Trailblazer, rudder, chef, guide
That’s it, pretty much! (a favorite phrase of Ramona’s)

Our Fabulous Guides

A large part of the success and enjoyment of our journey was because of the wonderful women who guided us. We had requested that all our guides be women and Ramona was great about accommodating us.

Some of the Crones frequently made up haiku verses to describe experiences during the day. A verse was also written for each of the guides. The only haiku I composed is in my final entry for this trip.

The Crones of the Caribou

We feel strongly connected to the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge in spirit. We have all been politically active trying to save the refuge from the damage that would surely be caused by drilling for oil in this pristine and fragile ecosystem.

And we are adventurous women, ranging in age from late 50's to mid 60's. We trekked 23 difficult miles through the magnificent wilderness of the Brooks Range, each carrying a 45-50 pound backpack. We paddled 50 miles on the Kongakut River and hiked many more miles up and down the peaks near the Kongakut. The journey has touched us deeply and we are grateful for the priviledge of the experience.

Above: Joanie, Marilyn, Sue, Nony, Jenn
Below: Barbara

Joan Lohman is a practitioner of Rosen Method bodywork and specializes in elder massage . She's also an accomplished writer, and a musician who enjoys playing the cello - sometimes accompanying her partner, Jenn, who plays piano.

Marilyn Webb is co-owner of Bethel Heights Vineyard in Oregon, where they practice sustainable viticulture and are certified 'Salmon Safe' - meaning they adhere to farming practices that help keep Oregon's streams and rivers clean. Marilyn led us in Tai Chi everyday.

Sue Morgan is Education Director for Friends of Sausal Creek, a group of volunteers working together to improve the creek watershed in Oakland, CA. She teaches in the FOSC Environmental Education program.

Nony Morgan (yours truly) is a retired nurse and holistic chiropractor with sub-specialties in cranio-sacral therapy and nutrition, and has been traveling the North American continent in a van-camper for the past 4 years.

Jennifer Biehn teaches communication and computer classes at San Francisco City College. She does a solo backpack on the John Muir Trail every summer and also backpacks with her young nieces and nephews. Jenn's vision and dedication to her dream are what brought us to the Arctic.

Barbara Goldenberg is a retired banker and currently keeps busy with several volunteer positions. These include tutoring Native American students at junior high level, and doing civic projects through the Hillside Gardeners of Montclair group.

Boo Hoo

We wanted to have a farewell dinner with our dear guides and decided to cook at our condo rather than go to a restaurant. Susan and Ramona were the last to leave the Arctic and didn't return to Fairbanks until about an hour before dinner. Carol brought over some pictures of our backpacking week.

It was a lovely evening and we were so pleased that they spent 3 hours hanging out with us. Bittersweet because goodbyes are always bumpy for me. Ah well... I hope to return to Alaska sometime soon and get a chance to spend some playtime with these fun women.

Northern Alaska Environmental Center

This morning we met with Pam Miller, Arctic Coordinator for the Northern Alaska Environmental Center in Fairbanks. Each of us introduced ourselves and spoke a bit about our lives and our varied interests and environmental concerns. Pam talked with us about promoting an awareness of the need to protect the Arctic Refuge from oil drilling, and she gave us suggestions to take back to our own states of Oregon, California and Montana. We were each given a copy of 'Broken Promises - The Reality of Big Oil in America's Arctic', a booklet she developed for the Wilderness Society.

Pam said that beneath all the arguments for the development or protection of the Alaska National Wildlife Refuge (and the entire Arctic region) is the understanding that there are some places on the earth that are so special, we need to save them for future generations. She called this the Bottom Line argument. She suggested we talk about the refuge as critical to preserving an intact ecosystem. (from Joan Lohman's notes)

Pam received our earth blessing vessel as a gesture of solidarity from all those supporting our trip in spirit.

Fly Away

It took 3 airplane trips to get eight of us and all the gear back to Fairbanks; Barbara, Sue and I took the first flight. I got up early to wash my hair by the river so I would feel less grungy returning to civilization. Kirk picked us up at about 8:30 and provided interesting commentary on the way to Arctic Village where we would transfer to a larger plane.

After refueling, Kirk went back to the Kongakut to pick up Marilyn, Joanie and Jenn. As they were waiting for him, hundreds more caribou crossed the river and passed by their packed bags.

While we were at the Arctic Village airstrip waiting for the second plane to arrive, some of the Gwich'in people came out to show us jewelry and crafts they had for sale. We spoke with a couple of women who told us how important the caribou migration is to their subsistence and way of life. If oil drilling is allowed on the coastal plains of the Arctic Refuge, it will interfere with the calving grounds and change the migratory pattern of the herd. The Gwich'in depend on the Porcupine Caribou herd to meet the nutritional, cultural and spiritual needs of their people.

Arctic Blessings

Jennifer and Joanie had a small earthen pot that was crafted in northern Mexico. Over 200 friends and family members have 'spoken' prayers and blessings into the vessel... asking for protection of the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge from oil drilling, global warming and other onslaughts threatened by the negligence, greed and short-sightedness of humanity.
At the top of the farthest peak, we had a ceremony. We spoke prayers and thoughts and blew the blessings out to the caribou nursery of the coastal plains - known to the Gwitch'in people as the sacred place where life begins.

When we returned to camp after more than 8 hours of hiking, we ate dinner then packed up the boats. We only paddled for about 15-20 minutes downstream to the airstrip where we will fly out early tomorrow morning. It was midnight by the time we set up camp again and went to bed.

A Perfect Last Day

Today was our last full day on the Kongakut and it was fabulous! Sue came to my tent at about 7:30 this morning to say there were hundreds of caribou streaming out of the hills and swimming the river upstream from our camp. Then we looked at the hills behind us and hundreds more were moving past... they just kept coming and coming.

The day was gorgeous, with a nice breeze to keep the mosquitos inactive. The wildflowers are beautiful and abundant, and we enjoyed the sweet scent of the lupines as we walked among their purple blooms.
We hiked for hours over several peaks and finally reached a place where we could see the Beaufort Sea, a part of the Arctic Ocean. Ramona checked her GPS and told us that our elevation gain hiking to this peak was 1,500 feet. We looked out over the coastal plains and saw the blue of the water and the white ice. The view of 'the end of the world' was magnificent, breathtaking, and deeply moving.

We kept seeing big herds of caribou on the move... running over the hills and crossing the Kongakut. Last month most of the females arrived at the calving grounds on the coastal plains. There are about 120,000 caribou in the Porcupine herd and they make this journey from Canada every year - several hundred miles. The vegetation on the plains is very nutritious for pregnant and lactating caribou cows and their calves, and the wide open space is safer for calving because there are fewer predators than in the mountains.

It's mostly the bull caribou arriving now, though we saw several females with young calves. They must have had to stop on the way to give birth before reaching the plains.

Today was a gift - being able to witness this awesome spectacle of thousands of migrating caribou!

The End of the World

Sue, Barbara, and I rode in Susan's boat today - me in back for a change. We stopped for lunch and Sue spotted 2 wolves running in the distance - a white one and a dark one. It looked like they were playing chase.

We stopped to set up camp on a sandy area next to a creek. The terrain is flatter - less mountains though still hilly. We're about 10 miles from the Arctic Ocean and can see the flatness of the northern horizon. Susan says, "The end of the world."

Today is Sue's birthday and we celebrated with gingerbread and cream birthday cake - complete with candles. We also presented her with a book on Denali since she will be going there after this river trip.

After dinner we took a short hike up the hill to a high knoll where we could look down to see the Kongakut spreading out into multiple channels.

Ramona Tests Us

Some of us bathed in the cold Kongakut, then we went for a very long hike up over hills and more hills. Each time we reached one peak, Ramona would encourage us to go for the next one. I think she was testing our endurance to see if we were up to doing the very long, steep hike to view the Arctic Ocean.
We sat on a hill and watched hundreds of caribou migrate. From a distance, many of them looked like ants crawling over hills and through valleys.

We watched dozens of Dall sheep on the steep hills and also many on the sand bars.

While hiking, we noticed caribou antlers appear at the top of a knoll. We knew they were grazing towards us, so we all sat down in the tussock field and stayed very still. The caribou noticed us but didn't seem to feel threatened and continued foraging to within about 15 yards of us - what a thrill to be so close!

Keep Paddling

It was sprinkling when we got up and we decided to raft today and have a layover day at the next campsite. The temperature is colder with a chilly wind and constant light rain. Jenn, Barbara and I were on Ramona's boat today and she had us paddle a lot to keep warm. The scenery is starting to change as we leave the rugged mountains and paddle north into the foothills toward the Arctic Sea.

The mew gulls have been interesting along the river. They always dive bomb us and squawk when we enter their territory. We saw a group of about 35 dall sheep grazing on the steep hillside across from camp. Later, I found wolf and grizzly tracks in the sand behind my tent.

Paddles are stacked around the food bags at night so we would know if an animal tried to raid our kitchen. The raft is tipped up to use as a wind break while cooking.

Susan and Ramona went for an exploratory walk to scout a good hike for our layover day tomorrow, and they saw a white wolf go over a hill.

Sue, Joanie, Jenn and I went for a walk around 10:00 pm and found a lovely field of wildflowers, moss, and beautiful rocks and pebbles.

Caribou Swim the Kongakut

A small herd of caribou passed our campsite and swam across the river. We also watched a caribou cow and her very young calf cross. The mother swam on the downstream side of the calf so it wouldn't get swept away in the current. The calf was very tiny and they rested for awhile after crossing.

Donny Babe

You left us 5 years ago today and I miss you, brother. I feel your spirit with me often.

Bumper Boat

Today was the day we paddled through the canyon and I was a bit nervous, as usual, about whitewater. Our boats are very heavy with all the gear piled in the middle. We stopped a couple of times to scout ahead. The first part of the run went well - some Class III waves and we took on water and had to bail.

Then we hit a big rock just below the surface and got stuck. I was bailing the front, wondering why the level didn't go down; then I saw that water was pouring over the back on Barbara's side. We finally got loose after I crawled to the back and bounced with Susan and Barbara to dislodge the raft. We had to paddle hard to a gravel bar so we could stop and bail - the boat was at least 1/2 full of water. After bouncing off a couple more rocks and paddling hard, we made it to shore where Ramona's boat was waiting.
We had lunch, then Susan and Ramona scouted out a campsite downstream. Barbara and Sue and I were getting cold - wet feet, wet socks, wet long johns, wet jacket.

Our campsite was a little tricky to get to, and Ramona and Susan had to pull the boats up a channel.