Ramona Tests Us

Some of us bathed in the cold Kongakut, then we went for a very long hike up over hills and more hills. Each time we reached one peak, Ramona would encourage us to go for the next one. I think she was testing our endurance to see if we were up to doing the very long, steep hike to view the Arctic Ocean.
We sat on a hill and watched hundreds of caribou migrate. From a distance, many of them looked like ants crawling over hills and through valleys.

We watched dozens of Dall sheep on the steep hills and also many on the sand bars.

While hiking, we noticed caribou antlers appear at the top of a knoll. We knew they were grazing towards us, so we all sat down in the tussock field and stayed very still. The caribou noticed us but didn't seem to feel threatened and continued foraging to within about 15 yards of us - what a thrill to be so close!

Keep Paddling

It was sprinkling when we got up and we decided to raft today and have a layover day at the next campsite. The temperature is colder with a chilly wind and constant light rain. Jenn, Barbara and I were on Ramona's boat today and she had us paddle a lot to keep warm. The scenery is starting to change as we leave the rugged mountains and paddle north into the foothills toward the Arctic Sea.

The mew gulls have been interesting along the river. They always dive bomb us and squawk when we enter their territory. We saw a group of about 35 dall sheep grazing on the steep hillside across from camp. Later, I found wolf and grizzly tracks in the sand behind my tent.

Paddles are stacked around the food bags at night so we would know if an animal tried to raid our kitchen. The raft is tipped up to use as a wind break while cooking.

Susan and Ramona went for an exploratory walk to scout a good hike for our layover day tomorrow, and they saw a white wolf go over a hill.

Sue, Joanie, Jenn and I went for a walk around 10:00 pm and found a lovely field of wildflowers, moss, and beautiful rocks and pebbles.

Caribou Swim the Kongakut

A small herd of caribou passed our campsite and swam across the river. We also watched a caribou cow and her very young calf cross. The mother swam on the downstream side of the calf so it wouldn't get swept away in the current. The calf was very tiny and they rested for awhile after crossing.

Donny Babe

You left us 5 years ago today and I miss you, brother. I feel your spirit with me often.

Bumper Boat

Today was the day we paddled through the canyon and I was a bit nervous, as usual, about whitewater. Our boats are very heavy with all the gear piled in the middle. We stopped a couple of times to scout ahead. The first part of the run went well - some Class III waves and we took on water and had to bail.

Then we hit a big rock just below the surface and got stuck. I was bailing the front, wondering why the level didn't go down; then I saw that water was pouring over the back on Barbara's side. We finally got loose after I crawled to the back and bounced with Susan and Barbara to dislodge the raft. We had to paddle hard to a gravel bar so we could stop and bail - the boat was at least 1/2 full of water. After bouncing off a couple more rocks and paddling hard, we made it to shore where Ramona's boat was waiting.
We had lunch, then Susan and Ramona scouted out a campsite downstream. Barbara and Sue and I were getting cold - wet feet, wet socks, wet long johns, wet jacket.

Our campsite was a little tricky to get to, and Ramona and Susan had to pull the boats up a channel.

Summer Solstice

Summer Solstice is the longest day of the year. It is a time for cleansing and renewal. Joanie and Jennifer got up at 3:00 AM to celebrate the first day of summer and took this picture.

Rainy Day

We paddled through more spectacular scenery. It was hot and sunny when we started our paddle, then turned cold and windy several hours later downriver. We stopped where 'Crone Creek' flows into the Kongakut and saw 2 eagles' nests on the cliffs above, though no eagles seem to be in residence now.
It got so windy it was hard to paddle so we pulled over to make camp. We set up our tents and the cooking shelter in a dry wash, protected from the wind by the willows. It started raining hard while we were setting up and we had to sponge-dry the inside of the tents once they were up.

Bagging Peaks

We left late morning for a hike up the peaks. The farthest peak was only about a mile away, but the elevation gain was 800-1000 feet. There were more beautiful vistas of mountains, streams and rivers and the hike was very steep and strenuous, but lovely with wildflowers.



The XtraTuf rubber boots have been great for rafting and for hiking through slushy tussock fields. Once we reached higher dry ground today, we changed into our hiking boots and left the XtraTufs to come back to later.

There were short bouts of driving rain and we got in and out of our rain gear 5 or 6 times. We enjoyed another mountain picnic, then stopped on the way down for an hour of napping, drawing, and writing.

We saw a bald eagle being chased by the gulls this evening. Those birds sure are aggressive about protecting their territory - must have a nest in the area. Ramona and Susan joined us for Tai Chi before bedtime.

What's That Racket?

The gulls started squawking at 1:30 this morning. I could tell they were very agitated about something so I unzipped my tent to look out (light all night). I saw a smallish 4-legged critter scurrying around the edge of camp and the gulls were buzzing it. I got out of my tent to get a better look and Ramona got up too. It was a mottled gray-white fox with a white-tipped tail. Ramona said it was in the 'red fox' family, but this mottled type was called a 'cross-fox'.

Launch the Boats

We woke up late this morning ~ 8:30. It's a warm, cloudy day and we packed up leisurely after granola, yogurt and peaches for breakfast. We had to learn to re-pack, since everything now goes into a big dry-bag instead of our backpacks. Each of the 2 boats got piled with gear in the center, wrapped in a tarp, and tied down securely. Two paddlers sit in front and one in back with a guide. I'm in Susan's raft and our group seems to be paddling well together.



We stopped at a gravel bar for lunch and picnicked on a bluff in a lovely alpine meadow amidst wildflowers, and surrounded by the craggy mountain peaks of the Brooks Range. Indescribable beauty.

Later we stopped on a sandy bank and set up our tents just before a brief rainfall. I washed my hair using icey cold river water; I was feeling grungy and greasy, and clean hair is so refreshing.

I can't stop talking about the food! The meals are delicious and plenty filling. Tonight Ramona and Susan fixed brown rice and chicken/vegie curry with chutney, cashews, and cilantro. Lemon-ginger cookies for dessert.
Susan joined us for Tai Chi this evening. We've been doing these stretches at least once a day, led by Marilyn.

Jenn and Joanie celebrated their anniversary today; they've been together for 13 years.

Goodbye and Hello

The gravel landing strip across the river was busy this morning, bringing other boaters to join the people already there. Susan, Ramona, and Barbara arrived and immediately inflated a raft so they could paddle over to our side to pick up Carol and deliver her to the waiting pilot. We said a boo-hoo goodbye and watched her fly away.


Ramona decided to have a layover day here so some of the other people could leave ahead of us and we wouldn't all be scrambling for the same downriver campsites. After ferrying the new gals and equipment over to our camp, we took a leisurely hike to observe wildflowers, then perched on a bluff overlooking the Kongakut. We sketched, napped, explored the surroundings, and watched the caribou walk onto the aufeis to cool off and escape the mosquitos.

The Pyramid

Because it rained recently, the Kongakut was murky and we douldn't tell how deep it is in the middle, so we didn't cross to the other side to wait for the plane. If the water was clear and not more than a couple of feet deep, we would have used the pyramid technique to cross. Carol showed us how to do it and we practiced on shore (without our backpacks).

One person faces upstream against the current and leans forward on a pole or stick. Two others stand behind her, holding onto her backpack and pushing her forward so the current can't knock her over backwards. Then three others stand behind them doing the same thing. The farther back you are, the more stable because the ones in front are partially blocking the force of the current. Everyone then moves laterally - slowly and carefully across the river.