Gypsy Blessings

Special Yellowstone NP Tour

2006-09-27T21:59:00.000-07:00

Today about 18 women took a tour of Yellowstone NP. This was arranged by Renee Evanoff, a local artist, and Jim Evanoff, Environmental Manager for the park.The elk are in rut now and we watched a magnificent bull elk herd his harem and bugle his call. Other bull elk were in the vicinity, but they were younger and smaller and would have been no match in a fight to challenge the big guy's claim to the females.

~~~~~ This bison found a good scratching post. ~~~~~

Jim informed us that the Yellowstone bison have bigger humps between their shoulders than the bison of the plains. During the harsh winter, they have to move their massive heads back and forth to clear the deep snow so they can find food. This causes a build-up of the muscles that support the neck.

Visitors aren't allowed to remove anything from the park, so it was interesting to see several huge elk antlers laying on the ground from the annual shed or from the remains after the death of the animal. Smaller animals chew on these for the mineral content, so it's an important part of the eco-system. There are about 57 different types of beetles that feed off an elk carcass, and only one is a meat eater. The others eat different things, such as the micro-organisms that appear during decomposition.

Monitoring the Fire

2006-09-10T14:37:00.000-07:00

The Derby Mountain fire started over a week ago and has spread toward Big Timber and the Boulder Valley, burning almost 200,000 acres and destroying at least 20 homes. So far, Val's ranch is safe but we wanted to take the 4-wheeler out to the farthest hilltop to monitor the fire's spread.

The wind had kicked up when we reached a lookout point and we could see the fire in the distance - about a half dozen different locations. We watched great plumes of smoke billow up as the wind pushed the fire ahead, but Val thought the ranch would be safe.

We drove around thousands of acres for 3-4 hours. Val has mostly red angus cattle and the neighboring rancher has mostly black angus, so we checked to see if any of the cattle got mixed up when the fence was broken recently. Saw several fairly fresh piles of bear scat, but no sightings of Teddy. The choke cherries are very abundant this year and we could see that the bear was feasting on the bounty.

There were a couple of 'sheepherders monuments' up on a ridge. These are stone cairns that sheepherders built long ago - probably out of boredom from the monotony of the job.

The scent of sage was lovely when we drove through large patches of it. I stopped to pick some big bundles, along with some juniper branches so I can tie together small bundles for myself and friends.

Swimmer!

2006-09-09T15:01:00.000-07:00

Val bought a Poke Boat from a guy in Billings recently, so we paddled the Yellowstone River today to try it out. We put-in at Springdale and paddled down to Grey Bear fishing access site - about 10 miles.

None of us had paddled this section of river before and the lower water level caused more rapids than we had expected. I saw Val go around the corner of a gravel bar, then paddle like hell to get over to the right of the rapids. Cassandra was next, but couldn't avoid the rapids and bounced through them. I paddled through a line of rapids spread out across the river, then... Yikes! - I plunged down into a big trough. I paddled hard to get through, then got pounded by the next section of rapids.

When I was almost through the rough water, I looked up and saw the bottom of Cassandra's kayak ahead. She had hit a rock and flipped. I kept watching for her to pop up and it seemed like a LONG time before she finally did. By the time I reached her she had made it to the shallows - very out of breath and frightened because she couldn't get out from under the boat right away. The current grabbed the overturned kayak out of her grip and it floated downstream. I was able to catch up with it and maneuver it into the eddy, then pull it onto the beach to drain the water.

It was a good place to stop for lunch and let the adrenalin rush subside. We agreed that we don't want to paddle that section again soon. We're all leisure paddlers and don't really want to challenge big rapids - wildlife viewing is more our style. Val sure got to test the maneuverability of her new boat and she's very pleased with her purchase.

Goodbye, Little Pepper

2006-09-03T17:39:00.000-07:00

Pepper has been Judy's faithful friend and traveling companion for seventeen years. She used to travel extensively with Judy when she went on tour or was away teaching at her 'Women Making Music' retreats. Little Pepper went to the big doghouse in the sky today and Judy is very sad.

New Garden

2006-08-29T21:17:00.000-07:00

Judy planted a lawn and garden since I was here last and I want to show off the results. Perhaps you need to be familiar with the previous weeds and mud to appreciate the change, but it's quite charming. I'm staying in this cabin behind her house. The birds love the sunflowers and Hallie, Judy's new pound-dog, chases butterflies through the garden.

An Evening at the Ranch

2006-08-19T23:12:00.000-07:00

Cassandra's friends, Celia and Mariquita, are visiting from California and Val invited us over to dinner at her ranch. The flock of wild turkeys has been hanging around waiting for apples to fall off the heavily ladened trees and Cassandra collected a handful of handsome turkey feathers.

There are a couple of calves living in Val's front yard because they're orphaned and need the special feedings that Val gives them every day. Three cows died during calving season after eating some poisonous weeds. One of the calves found a surrogate cow mama, but the other two depend on Val for nutritious supplements to their grazing.

Dinner was delicious of course. Val provided her grass-fed beef steaks and we all potlucked various vegie dishes and apple pie dessert. I forgot to bring a chicken breast to BBQ, but there were ample side dishes and I ate hearty.

Floating the Yellowstone

2006-08-13T22:29:00.000-07:00

It was a perfect day to be on the river - warm temperatures and no wind. We met at Dee Dee and Ursula's place at noon, then drove down the Paradise Valley to Mallards Rest fishing access to put-in. Holly and Rosemary each had a kayak; Dee Dee and Ursula paddled their SOAR inflatable canoe, and Val and I shared my inflatable Sea Eagle PaddleSki - a combination kayak/catamaran.

The mild rapids and balmy air made for leisurely paddling. We saw several osprey and a bald eagle and also sighted a now-empty 'rookery' - several trees with multiple nests for raising avian families.

We stopped to eat lunch on a gravel bar and, as we were sitting there, we saw Velma rowing down the river in her oar boat with a few other women. We all know Velma, so Ursula said, "Let's moon them!" So we did... six women in our 50's and 60's dropped our pants and bent over and smiled. The women in the oar boat cheered us, then lifted their shirts and flashed us as they floated by.

Just before take-out, we had to negotiate a narrow chute at the end of a shallow dam. We had checked it out before and it looked pretty easy - however, it's hard to see the narrow passage until you're right up on it. Ursula was able to stand in the canoe to get a better look and she and Dee Dee slipped through easily; Rosemary and Holly made it OK too. Val and I had hung back so as not to crowd the kayaks and when we started through, I saw that we were too far to the left and one pontoon floated up over a barely-submerged cement ledge and caused us to flip.

I popped up at the back of the overturned boat and Val immediately surfaced, laughing at the same time. We pulled onto a gravel bar to upright the boat and were pleased that we didn't lose any gear. Later we learned that Rosemary had tried to duck some over-hanging brush and tipped her kayak. Holly-the-fish swam out to help her get to shore.

We hung our wet gear and clothes all over Ursula and Dee Dee's fence to dry, then opened the beer and wine and enjoyed a delicious BBQ meal. Val is a cattle rancher and had brought some grass-fed beef steaks for the meat eaters, and Jake-the-dog used every shred of willpower not to jump on the table and nab a prize.

Dee Dee and Ursula just returned from backpacking in Wyoming and they found a spinning reel and rod that someone had left behind. When I mentioned that I had just bought a fishing license, they gave me the found gear. Cool!

Age Has Its Benefits

2006-08-07T22:17:00.000-07:00

Today is my 62nd birthday and it's the first time in decades that I haven't minded getting older. Today's birthday qualifies me for 3 new benefits:

1. I start collecting Social Security
2. I'm eligible for a Golden Age Passport - $10 for a lifetime pass = free admission to the National Parks and 1/2 price camping at many FS campgrounds. This was a gift from my camping buddies, Holly and Rosemary. I hopped on my bike and rode down to the Forest Service office to make my special purchase.
3. Montana fishing license is only $8 for MT residents age 62 and over.

Mom and Dad left a phone message singing 'Happy Birthday' to me off-key (It's a family custom to sing the HB song off-key.)

Dear friends - Goode and Cassie - each called to wish me HB. These friendships date back to the late 60's when we were nurses together at San Francisco General. I haven't seen either of them for years and we vowed to get together when I'm back in the Bay Area around the holidays.

Cassandra and Val planned a dinner for me and also invited our friends, Rosemary and Holly. It was a Great Day!

Camping at Cassandra's

2006-08-02T15:09:00.000-07:00

I arrived back in Big Timber today! One of Cassandra's employees from the North 40 is living in the cabin for another week, so I'll be camped out back until she leaves to go back to college.
This spot below Cassandra's house is very peaceful, with a view of the Crazy Mountains in the distance and a short walk to the river below.

That's Cassandra's new addition to her house on the left above my van. I'll be spending weeks painting the inside for her - and maybe the exterior too. The cabin where I'll be staying (behind Judy's house) is on the right.

Grand Tetons and Yellowstone

2006-08-01T15:16:00.000-07:00

I woke up to the sound of rapids on the Gros Vente River about 3 miles from Kelly (near Jackson, WY). This is a favorite boondock spot for me when I'm passing through the area. I explored a couple more miles up the road and found another nice spot overlooking the river where I may stay next time. Both spots are only suitable for a small rig like mine.

Yesterday afternoon I passed several bison on the way here.

The Tetons are beautiful peeking out above the clouds.

I always enjoy driving through Yellowstone NP and I stopped near a river for a couple of hours to eat lunch and watch the elk graze. The whole Grand Teton-Yellowstone area is a magnificent feast for my eyes.

Greys River

2006-07-30T15:25:00.000-07:00

The Greys River was a place where Rosemary and Holly had been wanting to fish for years. From Kemmerer in SW Wyoming, we drove north on 189, then took the dirt and gravel La Barge Road toward Alpine. It's a gorgeous area and the wildflowers were fab. There's a lot of dispersed camping along the river and we found a lovely spot under some trees along the river. H and R caught some trout and we cooked them over a campfire. We parted company in the morning as they needed to get back to Montana sooner than me.

Heading North

2006-07-28T15:28:00.000-07:00

After the rally, we headed up 550 from Silverton and stopped to get a temporary fishing license so Holly and Rosemary could fish in Wyoming on the way back to Montana. We drove through Grand Junction, CO and, at the time, I didn't know that my nephew would be coming here from Germany as an exchange student. I would have checked out the town more.

From I-70 we took the scenic route up 139 through NW Colorado and found a nice place to boondock off a dirt road near Douglas Pass - more BLM land. We kept hearing an animal noise coming from up the hill, but couldn't spot anything with our binoculars. Holly thought it might be a mountain lion calling to her cubs, but we also thought it might be a young elk calling for its mama.

Sportsmobile Rally 2006

2006-07-26T15:31:00.000-07:00

Our base camp is at beautiful Molas Lake and there are 100 rigs and about 200 people participating. Fat City Catering out of Moab, UT is providing meals again, but unfortunately Roger is retiring and this is his last gig catering for the rallies.

Lined up at Molas Lake before the trail rides

This year I'm riding with Holly and Rosemary instead of driving my own van on the trails. Some of the drop-offs on these rough, narrow roads are nerve-wracking for the passenger who has to look at the 1,000 foot drop just a couple of feet away from the tires.

Rosemary gets dizzy and nauseated from this kind of scene, so I'm navigating for Holly. I did these trails when I first started traveling in my Sportsmobile, so it's great to be able to enjoy the scenery this time.

A group returning from the Cinnamon Pass tour

Beautiful wildflowers near Cinnamon Pass

Some of the terrain on the Alpine Loop reminded me of the Arctic. A sign indicated that the tundra here is similar to that found in the Arctic. It made me feel nostalgic for my Alaska trip last month.

Silverton, CO

2006-07-23T15:42:00.000-07:00

Silverton used to be a big mining town north of Durango. The town has been gussied up for tourists and is a now a favorite destination for 4x4 rides through the beautiful San Juan Mountains.

I drove up to Molas Lake to check out the campground where the Sportsmobile Rally will be held starting tomorrow. Meanwhile, I'm boondocking on BLM land at Mineral Creek. Holly and Rosemary came down from Montana in their SMB and met me here today. We'll camp together at the rally too.

The Loneliest Highway

2006-07-18T17:44:00.000-07:00

Highway 50 through Nevada is called 'America's loneliest highway'. I love this stretch of road for that reason - there's hardly any traffic. I put the van in cruise-control, load up my CD player or tune-in Sirius satellite radio, blast the music, and sing my way across the state. Sometimes the desert is glorious with the yellow blooms and the bright green of new growth. After a rain, I roll down the windows and take in the delicious, pungent scent of sage. The road travels over several beautiful mountain passes for a cooler and different change of scenery - juniper and pinion pine forests.

~~~ NV desert in spring ~~~

~~~ NV desert in winter ~~~

There are several places along Highway 50 where I've stopped for a rest or to spend the night. All are free and have toilet facilities.

- Sand Mountain - 25 miles E of Fallon

- about 20 miles E of Sand Mtn, turn R on 722. There are a couple of places on the R within 10-15 miles. 722 joins 50 again just beforeAustin.
- Bob Scott NF c.g. - about 10 miles E of Austin; closed in winter,but there is a spot just before the gate where a small rig can tuck inbetween the trees.
- Hickison Petroglyph c.g. - between Austin and Eureka.
- Illiapah Reservoir c.g. - about 35 miles W of Ely

Heat Wave

2006-07-18T15:46:00.000-07:00

I started to leave California last week, but the temperature was in the 100's and I just didn't feel like driving through the Nevada desert during this heat wave. Instead, I stopped at the Ponderosa TTN c.g. in the foothills of the Sierras near Placerville and found a nice spot right on the South Fork of the American River. I love the sound of the rapids and it was a bit cooler by the river. Pretty much I just rolled out my awning and sat in the shade reading for a few days - too hot for anything else.

The heat continued, so I drove higher up the mountain on I-80 and stayed at Snowflower TTN c.g. for another couple days until the temps started dropping and I felt like crossing the desert. I know I could have just turned the AC on and driven across the state, but I really prefer driving with the windows down so I can smell the sage and breathe real air.

Today I stopped at Trader Joe's and Wild Oats Natural Foods in Reno, NV to stock up on food for the next couple of weeks.

Imbedded In My Soul

2006-06-29T22:34:00.000-07:00

This journal is my rendition of our time spent in the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. However, the true essence of my experience is far beyond words and is forever blended with my spirit.

Sometimes I felt so overwhelmed by the beauty and magnificence of the land and it's creatures, that all I could do was absorb the scene with tears running down my face. Being able to have such an intimate experience of this special place was a blessing and an honor.
Words don't do justice
Heart, spirit, psyche feel deep
Talk is not my truth

Susan

2006-06-29T20:09:00.000-07:00

Susan Delisa was a gift from Ramona - who didn't have another female river guide on her staff, so she asked her paddling buddy to fill in. Susan has a PhD in Biology and was very generous about sharing her knowledge of the various plants and flowers in the region.

She has developed the classes, 'Natural History of Alaska' and 'Marine Biology', which are taught through the Center for Distance Education at the University of Alaska-Fairbanks. Susan is also an accomplished bodywork practitioner, blending various disciplines - including neuromuscular therapy and myofascial work.

~~~~~~~~~~~~ Tres Chic ~~~~~~~~~~~~
Generous teacher
Leaves gentle wave in her wake
Just keep on paddlin'

Carol

2006-06-29T17:01:00.000-07:00

Carol Scott was our guide and our buddy on the backpacking portion of the trip. She moves naturally and comfortably in the wilderness and we always felt confident with her leadership.
During the school year, she teaches science to junior high school students in Fairbanks. Carol is originally from Britain, but you wouldn't guess it until she pronounces 'water'.... waw-tuh. ;-)

And she's a pilot too! Here she is with her own airplane - a Piper Pacer.
Pathfinder sister
Meets challenges with finesse
Packs a mean pantry

Ramona

2006-06-29T13:52:00.000-07:00

Ramona Finnoff was highly recommended by others who have participated in her trips, and she has been the owner of ABEC's Alaska Adventures since 1980. The bush pilots who flew us in and out of the Arctic also had high praise for her, so we began our journey knowing that we had teamed up with the best.

When we asked Ramona the meaning of the letters ABEC, she smiled and said... 'Always Bring Extra Chocolate'. Good motto, Ramona!

Ramona is totally cool on the river and makes guiding the boat look effortless. She knows the Kongakut area well and led us on some incredible hikes.
Extraordinary
Trailblazer, rudder, chef, guide
That’s it, pretty much! (a favorite phrase of Ramona’s)

Our Fabulous Guides

2006-06-29T10:49:00.000-07:00

A large part of the success and enjoyment of our journey was because of the wonderful women who guided us. We had requested that all our guides be women and Ramona was great about accommodating us.

Some of the Crones frequently made up haiku verses to describe experiences during the day. A verse was also written for each of the guides. The only haiku I composed is in my final entry for this trip.

The Crones of the Caribou

2006-06-29T08:18:00.000-07:00

We feel strongly connected to the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge in spirit. We have all been politically active trying to save the refuge from the damage that would surely be caused by drilling for oil in this pristine and fragile ecosystem.

And we are adventurous women, ranging in age from late 50's to mid 60's. We trekked 23 difficult miles through the magnificent wilderness of the Brooks Range, each carrying a 45-50 pound backpack. We paddled 50 miles on the Kongakut River and hiked many more miles up and down the peaks near the Kongakut. The journey has touched us deeply and we are grateful for the priviledge of the experience.

Above: Joanie, Marilyn, Sue, Nony, Jenn
Below: Barbara

Joan Lohman is a practitioner of Rosen Method bodywork and specializes in elder massage . She's also an accomplished writer, and a musician who enjoys playing the cello - sometimes accompanying her partner, Jenn, who plays piano.

Marilyn Webb is co-owner of Bethel Heights Vineyard in Oregon, where they practice sustainable viticulture and are certified 'Salmon Safe' - meaning they adhere to farming practices that help keep Oregon's streams and rivers clean. Marilyn led us in Tai Chi everyday.

Sue Morgan is Education Director for Friends of Sausal Creek, a group of volunteers working together to improve the creek watershed in Oakland, CA. She teaches in the FOSC Environmental Education program.

Nony Morgan (yours truly) is a retired nurse and holistic chiropractor with sub-specialties in cranio-sacral therapy and nutrition, and has been traveling the North American continent in a van-camper for the past 4 years.

Jennifer Biehn teaches communication and computer classes at San Francisco City College. She does a solo backpack on the John Muir Trail every summer and also backpacks with her young nieces and nephews. Jenn's vision and dedication to her dream are what brought us to the Arctic.

Barbara Goldenberg is a retired banker and currently keeps busy with several volunteer positions. These include tutoring Native American students at junior high level, and doing civic projects through the Hillside Gardeners of Montclair group.

Boo Hoo

2006-06-28T22:29:00.000-07:00

We wanted to have a farewell dinner with our dear guides and decided to cook at our condo rather than go to a restaurant. Susan and Ramona were the last to leave the Arctic and didn't return to Fairbanks until about an hour before dinner. Carol brought over some pictures of our backpacking week.

It was a lovely evening and we were so pleased that they spent 3 hours hanging out with us. Bittersweet because goodbyes are always bumpy for me. Ah well... I hope to return to Alaska sometime soon and get a chance to spend some playtime with these fun women.

Northern Alaska Environmental Center

2006-06-28T11:08:00.000-07:00

This morning we met with Pam Miller, Arctic Coordinator for the Northern Alaska Environmental Center in Fairbanks. Each of us introduced ourselves and spoke a bit about our lives and our varied interests and environmental concerns. Pam talked with us about promoting an awareness of the need to protect the Arctic Refuge from oil drilling, and she gave us suggestions to take back to our own states of Oregon, California and Montana. We were each given a copy of 'Broken Promises - The Reality of Big Oil in America's Arctic', a booklet she developed for the Wilderness Society.

Pam said that beneath all the arguments for the development or protection of the Alaska National Wildlife Refuge (and the entire Arctic region) is the understanding that there are some places on the earth that are so special, we need to save them for future generations. She called this the Bottom Line argument. She suggested we talk about the refuge as critical to preserving an intact ecosystem. (from Joan Lohman's notes)

Pam received our earth blessing vessel as a gesture of solidarity from all those supporting our trip in spirit.

Fly Away

2006-06-27T18:59:00.000-07:00

It took 3 airplane trips to get eight of us and all the gear back to Fairbanks; Barbara, Sue and I took the first flight. I got up early to wash my hair by the river so I would feel less grungy returning to civilization. Kirk picked us up at about 8:30 and provided interesting commentary on the way to Arctic Village where we would transfer to a larger plane.

After refueling, Kirk went back to the Kongakut to pick up Marilyn, Joanie and Jenn. As they were waiting for him, hundreds more caribou crossed the river and passed by their packed bags.

While we were at the Arctic Village airstrip waiting for the second plane to arrive, some of the Gwich'in people came out to show us jewelry and crafts they had for sale. We spoke with a couple of women who told us how important the caribou migration is to their subsistence and way of life. If oil drilling is allowed on the coastal plains of the Arctic Refuge, it will interfere with the calving grounds and change the migratory pattern of the herd. The Gwich'in depend on the Porcupine Caribou herd to meet the nutritional, cultural and spiritual needs of their people.

Arctic Blessings

2006-06-26T17:43:00.000-07:00

Jennifer and Joanie had a small earthen pot that was crafted in northern Mexico. Over 200 friends and family members have 'spoken' prayers and blessings into the vessel... asking for protection of the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge from oil drilling, global warming and other onslaughts threatened by the negligence, greed and short-sightedness of humanity.
At the top of the farthest peak, we had a ceremony. We spoke prayers and thoughts and blew the blessings out to the caribou nursery of the coastal plains - known to the Gwitch'in people as the sacred place where life begins.

When we returned to camp after more than 8 hours of hiking, we ate dinner then packed up the boats. We only paddled for about 15-20 minutes downstream to the airstrip where we will fly out early tomorrow morning. It was midnight by the time we set up camp again and went to bed.

A Perfect Last Day

2006-06-26T11:34:00.000-07:00

Today was our last full day on the Kongakut and it was fabulous! Sue came to my tent at about 7:30 this morning to say there were hundreds of caribou streaming out of the hills and swimming the river upstream from our camp. Then we looked at the hills behind us and hundreds more were moving past... they just kept coming and coming.

The day was gorgeous, with a nice breeze to keep the mosquitos inactive. The wildflowers are beautiful and abundant, and we enjoyed the sweet scent of the lupines as we walked among their purple blooms.
We hiked for hours over several peaks and finally reached a place where we could see the Beaufort Sea, a part of the Arctic Ocean. Ramona checked her GPS and told us that our elevation gain hiking to this peak was 1,500 feet. We looked out over the coastal plains and saw the blue of the water and the white ice. The view of 'the end of the world' was magnificent, breathtaking, and deeply moving.

We kept seeing big herds of caribou on the move... running over the hills and crossing the Kongakut. Last month most of the females arrived at the calving grounds on the coastal plains. There are about 120,000 caribou in the Porcupine herd and they make this journey from Canada every year - several hundred miles. The vegetation on the plains is very nutritious for pregnant and lactating caribou cows and their calves, and the wide open space is safer for calving because there are fewer predators than in the mountains.

It's mostly the bull caribou arriving now, though we saw several females with young calves. They must have had to stop on the way to give birth before reaching the plains.

Today was a gift - being able to witness this awesome spectacle of thousands of migrating caribou!

The End of the World

2006-06-25T21:13:00.000-07:00

Sue, Barbara, and I rode in Susan's boat today - me in back for a change. We stopped for lunch and Sue spotted 2 wolves running in the distance - a white one and a dark one. It looked like they were playing chase.

We stopped to set up camp on a sandy area next to a creek. The terrain is flatter - less mountains though still hilly. We're about 10 miles from the Arctic Ocean and can see the flatness of the northern horizon. Susan says, "The end of the world."

Today is Sue's birthday and we celebrated with gingerbread and cream birthday cake - complete with candles. We also presented her with a book on Denali since she will be going there after this river trip.

After dinner we took a short hike up the hill to a high knoll where we could look down to see the Kongakut spreading out into multiple channels.

Ramona Tests Us

2006-06-24T22:52:00.000-07:00

Some of us bathed in the cold Kongakut, then we went for a very long hike up over hills and more hills. Each time we reached one peak, Ramona would encourage us to go for the next one. I think she was testing our endurance to see if we were up to doing the very long, steep hike to view the Arctic Ocean.
We sat on a hill and watched hundreds of caribou migrate. From a distance, many of them looked like ants crawling over hills and through valleys.

We watched dozens of Dall sheep on the steep hills and also many on the sand bars.

While hiking, we noticed caribou antlers appear at the top of a knoll. We knew they were grazing towards us, so we all sat down in the tussock field and stayed very still. The caribou noticed us but didn't seem to feel threatened and continued foraging to within about 15 yards of us - what a thrill to be so close!

Keep Paddling

2006-06-23T22:39:00.000-07:00

It was sprinkling when we got up and we decided to raft today and have a layover day at the next campsite. The temperature is colder with a chilly wind and constant light rain. Jenn, Barbara and I were on Ramona's boat today and she had us paddle a lot to keep warm. The scenery is starting to change as we leave the rugged mountains and paddle north into the foothills toward the Arctic Sea.

The mew gulls have been interesting along the river. They always dive bomb us and squawk when we enter their territory. We saw a group of about 35 dall sheep grazing on the steep hillside across from camp. Later, I found wolf and grizzly tracks in the sand behind my tent.

Paddles are stacked around the food bags at night so we would know if an animal tried to raid our kitchen. The raft is tipped up to use as a wind break while cooking.

Susan and Ramona went for an exploratory walk to scout a good hike for our layover day tomorrow, and they saw a white wolf go over a hill.

Sue, Joanie, Jenn and I went for a walk around 10:00 pm and found a lovely field of wildflowers, moss, and beautiful rocks and pebbles.

Caribou Swim the Kongakut

2006-06-23T10:31:00.000-07:00

A small herd of caribou passed our campsite and swam across the river. We also watched a caribou cow and her very young calf cross. The mother swam on the downstream side of the calf so it wouldn't get swept away in the current. The calf was very tiny and they rested for awhile after crossing.

Donny Babe

2006-06-22T22:24:00.000-07:00

You left us 5 years ago today and I miss you, brother. I feel your spirit with me often.

Bumper Boat

2006-06-22T18:57:00.000-07:00

Today was the day we paddled through the canyon and I was a bit nervous, as usual, about whitewater. Our boats are very heavy with all the gear piled in the middle. We stopped a couple of times to scout ahead. The first part of the run went well - some Class III waves and we took on water and had to bail.

Then we hit a big rock just below the surface and got stuck. I was bailing the front, wondering why the level didn't go down; then I saw that water was pouring over the back on Barbara's side. We finally got loose after I crawled to the back and bounced with Susan and Barbara to dislodge the raft. We had to paddle hard to a gravel bar so we could stop and bail - the boat was at least 1/2 full of water. After bouncing off a couple more rocks and paddling hard, we made it to shore where Ramona's boat was waiting.
We had lunch, then Susan and Ramona scouted out a campsite downstream. Barbara and Sue and I were getting cold - wet feet, wet socks, wet long johns, wet jacket.

Our campsite was a little tricky to get to, and Ramona and Susan had to pull the boats up a channel.

Summer Solstice

2006-06-22T03:00:00.000-07:00

Summer Solstice is the longest day of the year. It is a time for cleansing and renewal. Joanie and Jennifer got up at 3:00 AM to celebrate the first day of summer and took this picture.

Rainy Day

2006-06-21T21:43:00.000-07:00

We paddled through more spectacular scenery. It was hot and sunny when we started our paddle, then turned cold and windy several hours later downriver. We stopped where 'Crone Creek' flows into the Kongakut and saw 2 eagles' nests on the cliffs above, though no eagles seem to be in residence now.
It got so windy it was hard to paddle so we pulled over to make camp. We set up our tents and the cooking shelter in a dry wash, protected from the wind by the willows. It started raining hard while we were setting up and we had to sponge-dry the inside of the tents once they were up.

Bagging Peaks

2006-06-20T20:14:00.000-07:00

We left late morning for a hike up the peaks. The farthest peak was only about a mile away, but the elevation gain was 800-1000 feet. There were more beautiful vistas of mountains, streams and rivers and the hike was very steep and strenuous, but lovely with wildflowers.

The XtraTuf rubber boots have been great for rafting and for hiking through slushy tussock fields. Once we reached higher dry ground today, we changed into our hiking boots and left the XtraTufs to come back to later.

There were short bouts of driving rain and we got in and out of our rain gear 5 or 6 times. We enjoyed another mountain picnic, then stopped on the way down for an hour of napping, drawing, and writing.

We saw a bald eagle being chased by the gulls this evening. Those birds sure are aggressive about protecting their territory - must have a nest in the area. Ramona and Susan joined us for Tai Chi before bedtime.

What's That Racket?

2006-06-20T01:30:00.000-07:00

The gulls started squawking at 1:30 this morning. I could tell they were very agitated about something so I unzipped my tent to look out (light all night). I saw a smallish 4-legged critter scurrying around the edge of camp and the gulls were buzzing it. I got out of my tent to get a better look and Ramona got up too. It was a mottled gray-white fox with a white-tipped tail. Ramona said it was in the 'red fox' family, but this mottled type was called a 'cross-fox'.

Launch the Boats

2006-06-19T11:59:00.000-07:00

We woke up late this morning ~ 8:30. It's a warm, cloudy day and we packed up leisurely after granola, yogurt and peaches for breakfast. We had to learn to re-pack, since everything now goes into a big dry-bag instead of our backpacks. Each of the 2 boats got piled with gear in the center, wrapped in a tarp, and tied down securely. Two paddlers sit in front and one in back with a guide. I'm in Susan's raft and our group seems to be paddling well together.

We stopped at a gravel bar for lunch and picnicked on a bluff in a lovely alpine meadow amidst wildflowers, and surrounded by the craggy mountain peaks of the Brooks Range. Indescribable beauty.

Later we stopped on a sandy bank and set up our tents just before a brief rainfall. I washed my hair using icey cold river water; I was feeling grungy and greasy, and clean hair is so refreshing.

I can't stop talking about the food! The meals are delicious and plenty filling. Tonight Ramona and Susan fixed brown rice and chicken/vegie curry with chutney, cashews, and cilantro. Lemon-ginger cookies for dessert.
Susan joined us for Tai Chi this evening. We've been doing these stretches at least once a day, led by Marilyn.

Jenn and Joanie celebrated their anniversary today; they've been together for 13 years.

Goodbye and Hello

2006-06-18T11:49:00.000-07:00

The gravel landing strip across the river was busy this morning, bringing other boaters to join the people already there. Susan, Ramona, and Barbara arrived and immediately inflated a raft so they could paddle over to our side to pick up Carol and deliver her to the waiting pilot. We said a boo-hoo goodbye and watched her fly away.

Ramona decided to have a layover day here so some of the other people could leave ahead of us and we wouldn't all be scrambling for the same downriver campsites. After ferrying the new gals and equipment over to our camp, we took a leisurely hike to observe wildflowers, then perched on a bluff overlooking the Kongakut. We sketched, napped, explored the surroundings, and watched the caribou walk onto the aufeis to cool off and escape the mosquitos.

The Pyramid

2006-06-18T08:44:00.000-07:00

Because it rained recently, the Kongakut was murky and we douldn't tell how deep it is in the middle, so we didn't cross to the other side to wait for the plane. If the water was clear and not more than a couple of feet deep, we would have used the pyramid technique to cross. Carol showed us how to do it and we practiced on shore (without our backpacks).

One person faces upstream against the current and leans forward on a pole or stick. Two others stand behind her, holding onto her backpack and pushing her forward so the current can't knock her over backwards. Then three others stand behind them doing the same thing. The farther back you are, the more stable because the ones in front are partially blocking the force of the current. Everyone then moves laterally - slowly and carefully across the river.

Carol's Parting Gift

2006-06-17T22:37:00.000-07:00

After climbing another ridge we looked down at the gravel bar where the plane would land tomorrow with our friend, Barbara, and our two river guides, Ramona and Susan. There were several other people camped at this rendezvous point - the only ones we had seen for a week. We weren't ready to break the solitude, so we decided to camp on the opposite side of the river by ourselves.

We reached our campsite at about 9:30 PM and Carol cooked us beans & rice and tomato-basil soup. She had saved the best dessert for our last night together and surprised us with a DELICIOUS chocolate pudding cake. Afterwards we sat around and drank chai and felt a little blue about losing Carol tomorrow morning.

And so ends our backpacking journey >> Top: Jenn, Sue, Carol; Bottom: Joanie, Nony, Marilyn

Arrival at the Kongakut

2006-06-17T16:29:00.000-07:00

It was a steep climb through tussocks and over several ridges. We stopped for lunch and a rest at the top and could see the Kongakut in the distance.

Carol took off to scout a route around a second rock slide and we hung out near another patch of aufeis.

This was the only time that the mosquitos were annoying enough to make us put on our glamorous head nets.

Detour

2006-06-17T11:19:00.000-07:00

Due to a massive rock slide that another guide had told Carol about, and because the warm days melted the snow and caused the creeks to run faster and deeper - we had to alter our hiking route to the Kongakut. We were supposed to finish our trek with a 3 mile hike along this creek, but it became 4-5 miles because we went up and over the hills, rather than following the creek around the edge.

Some caribou tolerate us, but we unintentionally spooked this group.

As we approached the aufeis to walk around it, we noticed 2 bears foraging on the hill above us. We were concerned that they would go down the hill on the back side and that we might run into them as we turned the corner. But as we started to climb the opposite hill across the ice, the bears saw us and started running in the other direction. OK - that eased my grizzly phobia.

Caribou and Aufeis

2006-06-17T09:11:00.000-07:00

We woke to a warm, sunny morning. Several small herds of caribou appeared out of the drainage and walked along the aufeis to head for the hills on the other side of our camp. They were beautiful against the blue-white of the ice and Marilyn wished she could get a close-up picture.

When the next small herd (15-20) appeared, I crouched down and approached them, arms over my head like antlers. (Well... I don't think they were fooled, but I was able to get closer.) When I got close enough to get a good shot, I stood up with my camera and took these pictures.

Aufeis

2006-06-16T22:58:00.000-07:00

Aufeis (German for 'ice on top') forms during the winter by the upwelling of river water behind previously frozen ice dams. New ice continues to form on top of older ice and the accumulation can be many feet thick.

We heard several loud booms while we were camped near the Aufeis. It sounded like explosions, but it was the sound of the ice cracking. Tomorrow we have to get to the other side of the ice, but we'll walk around it rather than take a chance crossing it while it's breaking up.

This is called 'candle ice' because of the way it forms into candle-like crystals.

Wolf Blessing

2006-06-16T19:43:00.000-07:00

While we were eating lunch at the pass, Joanie shook her rattle and asked for a safe passage. I told her to ask for a wolf sighting though Carol said she rarely sees them.

From the pass, we could see the aufeis in the distance - our camp for the night. My left knee bothered me on the downhill - the Baker's cyst got swollen and made it hard to bend the knee and get strength.

Our hike ended at the end of the tundra next to a gravel bed, with the massive aufeis a couple hundred yards in the distance. It was the end of a strenuous 7 mile hike.

As we were taking off our packs, Sue shouted, "Something's running towards the ice!" It was a white wolf! We watched it run lateral on the ice from right to left across our field of vision. What a magnificent creature... and such a thrill to watch it lope across the ice, turning it's head occasionally to look at us. It ran for about 1/4 mile then disappeared around the bend. A blessing at the end of the day's trek.

Tough Hike - Tough Crones

2006-06-16T15:49:00.000-07:00

Today was a tough day for hiking. After doing Tai Chi on the ridge, we broke camp and headed down another creek.

Our boots were wet most of the day because we did 51 creek crossings. We walked on gravel river beds, over slushy tussock fields, and through willow thickets that had been chewed down to 3-4 feet by the moose herd that migrated through in winter.

Saw several small herds of caribou - some were spooked by us and some kept grazing, but eyed us warily.

We hiked up to a beautiful pass - about 600 feet elevation gain - and ate lunch on the saddle of the pass with gorgeous views on either side.

Layover Day at Crone Crest

2006-06-15T11:26:00.000-07:00

The warm weather prompted us to go down to the river to bathe and do laundry. We felt primitive - doing a ritual that women have shared for thousands of years. The water was icy cold but it felt great to be clean.

I took a short walk up the hill to check out the vistas on the other side. It was a lazy afternoon spying on Dall sheep grazing on the steep mountainside across Crone Creek. Caribou silouettes moved across a far ridge.
Some of the others hiked up to the peak behind camp and viewed the river that we would be hiking along tomorrow.

Crone Crest Grizzly

2006-06-15T07:15:00.000-07:00

We call ourselves 'Crones of the Caribou' and we named this campsite 'Crone Crest'. Today we had a layover day at this beautiful location. I woke up sweating at 7:00 AM because the sun is out and my tent was an oven. Since I was the first one up, I sat on the ridge and meditated for about 45 minutes. Before closing my eyes, I scanned the hills and meadow across the river with my binocs and saw about a dozen caribou grazing and napping.

When I opened my eyes after meditating, I noticed an animal in the high grass across the river. Then it raised its massive head and I saw that it was a grizzly. I alerted Carol and the others, and we sat up on the ridge watching the bear for another 45 minutes while it foraged for food, dug up roots, and rolled on its back with feet in the air - quite oblivious to our presence.

It continued to forage, moving in a lateral direction when suddenly it became alert and looked up at us - it had caught our scent. When it realized we were humans, it started running and headed up the hill - again amazing us with its speed climbing that steep hill. It stopped briefly to take a 'stress dump' then ran again, stopping near the top to look at us. We could see its chest heaving while it breathed heavily from the exertion.

Carol started waving her arms and walking back and forth so it wouldn't think we were benign entities that it could check out later. It ran again and disappeared over the hill. We felt more at ease witnessing the second bear than ran from us.

A Hard Day's Trudge

2006-06-14T20:52:00.000-07:00

When possible, we followed game trails along the sides of hills and through the willows in order to avoid fields of tussocks. We saw a lot of moose poop but no moose. Apparantly there is a migrating herd that moves between Canada and the Kongakut area of the arctic. We also saw a lot of wolf scat in the willows along the gravel wash and found a long leg with a bit of meat still on it - probably a moose killed by the wolves.

We had to cross the snaking 'Crone Creek' (our name for it) several times in calf-high fast current, so our boots are soaked inside and out. I can't describe our surroundings adequately - tall, rugged snow-striped peaks - immense and majestic scenery - so raw and untouched. This is what fills my heart and soul.

We were tired with sore feet and legs when we stopped for the day to camp on the point of a ridge overlooking a creek on each side of it. Carol cooked us delicious vegetable soup and chile for dinner. The food has been great with more than ample portions. It was 11:00 PM when we finished eating dinner. It's hard to keep track of time because it never gets dark.

Tussocks

2006-06-14T20:24:00.000-07:00

Tussocks are big round mounds the size of a basketball or much bigger. Sedge and moss and lichen grow on them and they move when stepped on - very unstable to walk on them so we step between them. The ground between them was very wet from last night's rain and it was a slow walk. Hiking poles are necessary to keep from twisting an ankle.

Sometimes the tussocks are packed tightly with little room for a good foothold.

~~ 'Punk' tussocks with a spikey hairdo ~~

Crossing the Tussocks

2006-06-14T12:45:00.000-07:00

The storm has passed and blue skies are back. It's always a challenge to pack up and once again fit everything into our backpacks. The hiking was hard today, though only about 6 miles. We crossed a big open area - a tundra full of tussocks.

First Bear

2006-06-13T14:11:00.000-07:00

It was a beautiful sunny day and some of us bathed at the creek. After Carol fixed a delicious breakfast for us, we did Tai Chi stretches on the river bank, then leisurely packed up and started hiking at about noon. Temps were in the 70's and we dressed lightly.

We stopped at the bottom of a knoll to fill our water bottles before leaving the gravel drainage. As we were taking our packs off, Sue and I looked up and saw a grizzly coming over the top of the hill. BEAR! We all started waving our trekking poles and yelling loudly. I grabbed one of the pepper sprays to have ready. The griz stood up on it's hind legs to sniff and get a better look, then it ran the other way and scrambled up a steep hill and over the top.

We followed caribou trails around the sides of the hills, avoiding the fields of tussocks in the valley. Everytime we approached a blind corner or crest of a hill, we talked loud and sang so we wouldn't surprise a bear. We hiked up and down hills until about 6:00 PM, then made camp near a tiny creek. We relaxed with a cup of tea and watched thunder and lightning in the distance. The sky was dark and beautiful - many shades of grey. By the time dinner was ready it was raining so we all squeezed into the cook tent to eat. Early to bed to avoid the rain.

Begin the Trek

2006-06-12T23:44:00.000-07:00

We decided to hike for a couple of miles before setting up camp. We hiked along gravel bars, sloshed across several streams, and through low willow brush - always on the alert for grizzlies.

We stick close together when traveling through brush and call out loudly so we don't come upon a bear unexpectedly. We noticed bear scat and places where they had dug for roots.

Lunch on a gravel bar - crackers, cheese, peanut butter, dried apricots, cashews and chocolate.

Our camp was on a relatively flat area on soft lichen near Joe Creek - a gorgeous wild setting. We set up our tents in a loose cluster, with the cooking tent placed downwind and away from the sleeping area. Our packs and all food are stored there overnight.

After a delicious dinner of french onion soup, salmon pasta and mint milano cookies, we hiked up to a ridge to enjoy the magnificent vista and to watch the caribou graze. Some were inspired to do Tai Chi while up there.

Flight to the Arctic

2006-06-12T08:20:00.000-07:00

The shuttle picked us up at 7:00 to bring us to Wright Air Service. We did some Tai Chi while waiting for the pilots to load the TINY planes - only room for the pilot, 3 passengers and some gear, so we needed 2 airplanes.

The 2.5 hour flight provided gorgeous views of tundra, forested hills, braided meandering rivers and finally - the Brooks Range. The last half of the flight was a bit challenging for me - some turbulence and snow flurries made me feel queasy.

The 'runway' was a short strip of tundra that had been cleared of bushes. We bounced to a stop in a beautiful valley surrounded by the jagged, grey rocky peaks of the magnificent Brooks Range. There is a pile of old sun-bleached moose antlers nearby so pilots can spot the landing strip more easily.

Shopping and Packing

2006-06-11T13:11:00.000-07:00

I made 10-grain/fruit pancakes for breakfast, then we spent the day shopping and packing. Sue and I needed Xtra Tuff rubber boots for the rafting part of the trip. Jenn and Joanie found out at Denali that their new sleeping bags didn't keep them warm when night temps dropped into the 20's. They bought new Sierra Design bags and will return the others to REI when they get home. Sue bought a new rain jacket and Marilyn a fleece vest.

~ Joanie and Jenn show off their new sleeping bags. ~

We spent the evening packing in 3 categories - backpack, river bag, and things to store at the hotel until we return. Our river bags will be flown in to the Kongakut River at the end of the backpacking week.

Food Bags

2006-06-10T19:51:00.000-07:00

Ramona and Carol came over later this afternoon to bring us our food bags so we can each figure out how to fit 15 pounds of food into our backpacks. We each have a personal snack bag and then separately labeled bags designating whether it's for breakfast, lunch or dinner and what day it will be served. That way we'll know which bag to have easily accessable on the appropriate day.

Ramona is the owner of the guide company, ABEC's Alaska Adventures, and will be one of our guides on the rafting portion of our trip. Carol will be our guide on the week-long backpack preceding the river journey. They talked about what to expect and answered our many questions about gear and safety. Carol offered to bring a rifle on the backpack trip, but we decided that we are much safer from bear incidents because of our large group size (6 of us). We will be bringing 3 big bear-sized cans of pepper spray.

We all liked Carol and Ramona's spirit and energy, and feel very comfortable that they will be our guides. Ramona's company came very highly recommended by Ginny Wood and a few other people Jenn had talked to who had previously been on a guided trip with Ramona.

Mary Shields and Ginny Wood

2006-06-10T16:25:00.000-07:00

Marilyn arrived early this morning from Oregon. We made vegie scrambled eggs, toast and OJ for breakfast, then went for a walk in Creamers' Field near our hotel. It used to be a dairy and is now a bird sanctuary and we saw several Sandhill Cranes and of course the ubiquitous Canada Geese.

This afternoon we went out to Mary Shields' place to visit with her and Ginny Wood. Jenn and Joan met both of them 4 years ago on a previous trip to Alaska. They are both environmental activists and are the inspiration for Jennifer's planning of this trip to visit and honor the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge.

Mary lives in a lovely log house with beautiful hand-crafted wood furniture, cabinets and counters. She was the first woman to finish the 1,049 mile Iditarod sled-dog race in 1974. She has authored several books and a delightful documentary film, 'Season of the Sled Dog', about her experiences dog sledding in Alaska. During the summer months she gives a nightly presentation at her home and introduces her dogs to the folks who attend.

Ginny is a spunky woman, now in her 80's, and used to be a wilderness guide in the Arctic Wildlife Refuge. Ginny shared stories of guiding trips in ANWR and told us that the Kongakut is her favorite river. Ginny served in the Women's Airforce Service Pilot program during World War II and is also one of the founders of Camp Denali.

Mary had baked delicious oatmeal cookies and made limeade for us. We all sat out on her deck and talked for a couple of hours. She is a very gracious, modest woman and told us about her love of spending time alone in the wilderness with her dogs.

I purchased her book 'Sled Dog Trails' and, when she signed it, she wrote "Come back in the winter and we'll go mushing." I said, "Mary, don't say that unless you mean it, because I WILL come back and go mushing with you!"

Jenn and Joan took this picture on a previous visit - of Mary reading to her dog.

Arrival In Fairbanks

2006-06-09T16:09:00.000-07:00

Sue and I flew together from Oakland to Fairbanks and then took a shuttle to the Wedgewood Resort, where Jenn and Joanie were arriving by train from Denali. We have a great 2-bedroom suite with kitchen facilities and it ended up costing less per person than separate rooms would have cost.

We then shuttled back to the airport to rent a car and, after comparing prices at all the car-rental kiosks, made a midnight run to Fred Myers to stock our kitchen with food. I love to cook so I planned most of the meals. It's a great way to eat good food and save the expense of dining out.

Mt. Tamalpias Hike

2006-05-30T15:56:00.000-07:00

Gail is a dear friend that I don't get to spend nearly enough time with, but we were able to share a great hike on Memorial Day weekend. It was a beautiful day - great vistas of San Francisco and the bay, gorgeous scenery, and a perfect temperature for hiking.

Pre-Trip Backpack

2006-05-07T15:49:00.000-07:00

Five of us went on a weekend backpacking trip to try out new and borrowed equipment that we're taking with us to the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. Actually, it wasn't really backpacking because we stayed in a campground accessible by car. We hiked several miles everyday carrying at least 40 pounds of gear and made several discoveries.

Joanie and I both realized that our boots won't be suitable for a week of extensive hiking carrying a 50 pound pack. And Jenn and Joanie discovered faulty tent poles that need repairing. I ended up getting a pair of larger/sturdier boots on sale at REI, then had them stretched wider in the toe box.

~~~ Jennifer, Nony, Joanie, Barbara, Sue ~~~

Dorothy Mason 11/24/45 - 3/4/06

2006-03-04T23:32:00.000-08:00

Vaya con Diosa, Dorotea; my friend of 45 years lost her battle with cancer and left the planet today. I met 'Dort' in a high school Spanish class around 1960 and have called her Dorotea ever since. We shared various shenanigans and life passages with each other through-out the decades and knew we could always turn to each other for support when life got confusing or we just wanted to catch up on each others lives. Dear friend, I'll miss your ready smile and unwavering friendship.

North 40 Frame Shop

2006-02-28T15:56:00.000-08:00

Val manages the North 40 Frame Shop, but she has to take off March and April to be on the ranch fulltime during calving season. Cassandra asked me to work for her while she's gone, so I've been apprenticing since I arrived in mid-January. It's really fun learning a new craft and it's given me a chance to meet more of the local folks. The only part I don't like is going out to the unheated 'chop shed' to cut frames when the temperature is near zero.

Room With a View

2006-02-25T15:28:00.000-08:00

I love the cabin that Cassandra lets me stay in while I'm in Montana, especially the view from my sleeping loft. I wake up in the morning to a view of the Yellowstone River with the Crazy Mountains in the background. I often spot bald eagles, white-tail deer, red fox, various ducks, white pelicans, Canada geese, and the Great Blue Heron. Sandhill Cranes are harder to spot, but I hear them calling out during the summer months.

Winter with the snow-covered Crazies in the background

Same view with the lush greenery of summer

Winter dawn - a few minutes of color when the sun first kisses the Crazies

Montana Fashion

2006-02-19T15:18:00.000-08:00

Winter fashion in Montana includes the ubiquitous Carhardt jacket. a heavy canvas, quilted jacket that resists being ripped by barb wire and stands up against hardy outside work and the icy Montana winds. Several fashionable friends brought dinner food to Val's ranch to celebrate her birthday and Cassandra took these pictures of our fashion statement.

Cassandra, Nony, Val, Holly, Dee Dee, Ursula, Rosemary

Dee Dee Down!

2006-02-05T15:11:00.000-08:00

Dear Dee Dee slipped in Albertson's parking lot and WHAM - she fell and broke her arm. What a hard lesson for a very busy woman! Dee Dee is not one to lay idle, so she found a heavy winter coat that was big enough to fit over her splinted arm and we went hiking along the Yellowstone River with Jake the dog.

A Family Holiday

2005-12-25T15:09:00.000-08:00

Our family gathered at my sister Barbara's house for Christmas. Again, we potlucked some of the food, but Sissy made most of the delicious meal. We draw names for a nice gift exchange and everyone also brings a 'white elephant gift' that we use to play the 'steal a gift' game. I know it's called something else but my mind is a sieve.

ANWR Potluck

2005-12-11T15:00:00.000-08:00

Jennifer and Joan hosted a potluck at their home in Oakland, so that those of us planning the trip to the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge could get to know each other and start some serious planning. We are all committed to helping save that special area from oil drilling, and being able to experience the land by backpacking and rafting is truly a special blessing for each of us.

We watched the documentary, Arctic Dance, telling the story of Mardy and Olaus Murie, and their unyielding committment and dedication to have this wonderful place protected by Congress.

A painting of Olaus and Mardy Murie - part of an exhibition at the University of Alaska Museum in Fairbanks, AK

Hangin' With Sue

2005-12-07T14:48:00.000-08:00

Spent a few days up on Mt. Veeder above the Napa Valley visiting Sue and 2 of my favorite doggies. We hiked along the ridge and through vineyards and caught up on the latest news. A mutual friend's house had burned down recently and we were amazed that the intensity of the heat pretty much disintegrated the buildings.

Sue and Marc rent out a lovely secluded cottage above the Napa Valley. They allow dogs to bring their owners, so it is a very popular place for animal lovers to stay.
http://www.napavalleycasa.com

FreeWheelers on the Delta

2005-12-01T14:40:00.000-08:00

The Northern CA chapter of RVing Women, the FreeWheelers, met for a few days at Delta Shores. There was a holiday potluck and gift exchange for the nearly 70 women who attended. Some of the gifts were pretty bawdy and we laughed a lot and enjoyed the shenanigans of the 'steal a gift' game.

Post Menopausal Fat

2005-11-28T14:37:00.000-08:00

I can feel myself dragging around the 25-30 pounds I've gained in the past 15 years. I don't like the way my clothes fit and I really do want to be more fit again sooo... a revised South Beach meal plan has been started. I've cut way back on carbs, though I don't care to eat as much protein as recommended. Meals have been delicious and healthy snacking is encouraged, so I'm not hungry.

Russian River TTN

2005-11-27T14:33:00.000-08:00

I'm camped here for several days. It's beautiful at this time of year - green and peaceful and only about 20% occupancy. There is wifi in the lodge so I was able to upload Baja pictures and text to my blog. There was a notice posted that warned of a mountain lion prowling the park at night. I was a bit nervous walking back to my campsite after leaving the lodge at 9:00 PM.

Dorotea

2005-11-26T14:27:00.000-08:00

Dorotea and Claudia were down from Oregon visiting family, so I was able to spend a bit of time with them at her grandson Leif's birthday party in the park. Dorotea has been getting intensive chemo treatments and I'm very concerned about her health.

Thanksgiving In Berkeley

2005-11-24T14:24:00.000-08:00

I stayed with Mom and Dad for 4 days and made a berry pie and pumpkin cheesecake for our Thanksgiving feast at my brother Dennis's house in Berkeley. And what a feast it was! We potlucked the food, but really Cy did most of the fabulous cooking.

Instant Housing

2005-11-19T14:08:00.000-08:00

We attended an architectural demonstration by Dante Bini, Italian architect. He's developed a type of pre-fab structure that can be easily erected at disaster locations where quick, temporary housing is needed for displaced people.

The splayed house is positioned over a huge balloon that is then inflated to erect the house. Once the walls are fastened together, the balloon is deflated and removed.

Napa Valley Gathering

2005-11-18T13:57:00.000-08:00

Cassandra and Val are out here in CA visiting from Montana. Home base is Kay and Lucy's place in the Napa Valley and we're camped out on the land enjoying camaraderie and laughter. Kay is an acupuncturist in Napa and has been a friend for decades. Lucy, a filmmaker, is also trained in classical violin, so I loaned her my fiddle which I haven't been playing during my travels.

Mom and Dad

2005-11-17T18:43:00.000-08:00

Before going to visit Mom and Dad, I stopped at Whole Foods to pick up some soup and bread for our lunch. I enjoyed getting caught up on the latest family news and they enjoyed hearing some stories about my Baja trip. Later in the afternoon I set up my portable treatment table and did massage and non-force chiropractic adjustments for them.

We are all fans of the 'Survivor' show so we enjoyed watching the latest episode together. I applied to be on the first 2 shows but wasn't chosen, obviously. I've thought about applying again, but at this point I would have to really train hard to get in shape for the physical demands the experience requires. Hmm... not sure that I'm motivated enough to do that.

A 27 Hawk Day

2005-11-16T18:33:00.000-08:00

I am fascinated by raptors and always count them as I'm traveling. It's one of my road games to amuse myself while driving. After passing through the town of Los Banos, I headed north to tour the San Luis Wildlife Refuge. I had hoped to walk the trails and do some bird watching, but again - most of the area was closed except to hunters so I could only drive the perimeter. To my delight, I was rewarded with the sighting of 27 hawks, mostly redtails. A 27 hawk day - what a treat! That's a record I think.

Hawks always remind me of my brother Donny, who died of cancer four years ago. Ela told me that in the two years before he became ill, he had several vivid dreams of soaring like a bird. He told her the dreams felt very real and he loved the sensation of flying. Often, whenever I see a bird soaring overhead I call out, "Hey... Donny Babe!"

Mendota Wildlife Area

2005-11-15T18:26:00.000-08:00

I stopped at the Sportsmobile factory in Fresno to have my awning repaired and enjoyed hugs and a chat with Liz and Lynn. Next I headed for the Mendota Wildlife Area south of Los Banos. Most of the area was closed except to duck hunters with special permits. It was a lovely warm day and I found a quiet spot on the Fresno Slough where I could observe the waterfowl and watch the occasional splash of fish jumping.

I love the sunsets here and enjoyed listening to the birds and ducks finish up their days-end chatter as the frogs started their evening symphony, joined later by the coyote moonlight serenade.

Colonel Allen Allensworth SHP

2005-11-14T18:10:00.000-08:00

Heading north past Bakersfield, I decided to stop at this state historic park which is a restoration of the town of Allensworth, the only California town to be founded, financed and governed by African Americans. The small farming community was founded in 1908 by Colonel Allen Allensworth and a group of others who envisioned a town where blacks could start a new life together and become self-sufficient. Unfortunately, a re-routing of the railroad and a drop in the area’s water table, eventually resulted in the town’s demise.

~~~ Mary Dickenson Memorial Library ~~~

I took a leisurely tour of the town's restored buildings and enjoyed watching the informative 20 minute video at the visitor center. Initially, I had planned to spend the night at the campground since there are many burrowing owls living at the park and I had hoped to get some pictures. However there must have been a recent hatch of pesty flies and I found them too annoying, so I moved on.

The most important building, historically and in the memory of Allensworth pioneers, is the schoolhouse.

Border Patrol

2005-11-07T18:06:00.000-08:00

Pio Pico is close to Mexico with only about five miles of hills between here and the border. I often see border patrol helicopters flying over the hills and their trucks drive through the park to access the dirt roads leading towards the border. I've hiked out there a couple of times and have noticed places near the wash where the grass is matted down under the trees like people have made a temporary camp.

Today I watched a patrol truck return from the hills and transfer a half dozen Mexican men and women to another waiting BP vehicle that would take them to be processed for deportation. They looked so young - teens and early 20's perhaps... people desperate to find a way to better their lives. I have mixed feelings about immigration; I know we can't accept everyone who wants to come to the US, but I'm also not
comfortable turning them away. My paternal grandparents imigrated from Mexico in the early 1900's and my other grandmother came here from Ireland.

Who gets to stay, who should be turned away? No simple answers...

Fly Away Awning

2005-11-05T18:01:00.000-08:00

When I was in Baja, the winds would predictably arrive sometime during the day so I always had my awning securely staked down. I also had a rope thrown over the top of the awning and tied down for extra protection. Sometimes strong winds would flatten my screen room, but the awning always withstood the assault.

While here at Pio Pico I've had the awning rolled out, but hadn't staked it down because there have only been occasional mild breezes... until today. While I was inside fixing something to eat, a sudden gust flipped the awning up vertical against the raised pop top. A couple of neighbors heard my universal distress cry of "Oh shit!" and came running over. Two of the three support screws had been ripped out so they held the awning up while I unfastened the remaining support bolt. Fortunately the awning itself wasn't damaged and I was able to roll it back up until I can get it re-attached to my rig.

Off The Road For Awhile

2005-10-30T17:54:00.000-08:00

My camping style of choice is boondocking, preferably where there are few people and interesting wildlife. After fulltiming for over three years, I discovered that occasionally I just want to hole up somewhere and plug in, do my laundry, access the internet, etc. Since I no longer have a home, I decided to buy a Thousand Trails membership on eBay.

This has really worked out well, especially when I'm back in California to visit family and friends around the holidays. The parks are often only about 20-30% full off season, so I'm able to enjoy a quiet respite. Pio Pico is a TTN park SE of San Diego near the town of Jamul. Before heading for the park, I stopped in town to get a few groceries and check out the post office where I'm having mail forwarded.

I always try to find a site on the perimeter of the park, and far away from the activity center. I chose a big site with oak trees at the base of the hills and near a gate leading to the dirt road that winds through the canyon and out into the hills. This will be home base for the next two weeks. It's close enough to San Diego to be able to run in to Trader Joe's, go to the car wash, and do some banking.

Bye Bye Baja

2005-10-29T12:29:00.000-07:00

It was almost dusk when we crossed the border at Tecate. We drove east on Hwy 94, then took Church Road to the Golden Acorn Casino off of I-8. After eating dinner in the casino, we spent the night in the back of their parking lot.

This morning, we said our goodbyes early and the other three women headed for Arizona and I back-tracked to a campground near San Diego.

La Bufadora

2005-10-29T10:02:00.000-07:00

La Bufadora blow hole was our last stop in Baja. Waves rushing into an underground cavern force spumes as high as 80-100 feet up through a hole in the top of the cavern. This is a very popular tourist spot and we felt a bit of culture shock when we first encountered the crowds. The road leading from the parking area to La Bufadora was lined with vendors. Several of them were giving samples of churros and I accepted every offer.

On the way back we stopped at a place selling fish tacos, and again... very delicious and only $1 apiece.

~~~~~~ La Bufadora postcard ~~~~~~

Punta San Jacinto

2005-10-28T23:11:00.000-07:00

This is a popular surfing location NW of Camalu. There are several permanent trailers and small cottages owned by surfers, though the place was not very inhabited at this time.

Just offshore is the rusted-out wreck of a big freighter. It's a great hangout for the birds.

We drove to the north end of the rocky beach near a fire pit and enjoyed the warmth of our campfire tonight.

Wet Buzzard

2005-10-28T22:53:00.000-07:00

We stopped at Gypsy's Beach Camp near Camalu, thinking that's where we would spend the night. We didn't care for the ambience though - just a big fenced dirt parking lot and too far from the beach. However... the restaurant, Laura's Zopilote Mojado (Wet Buzzard), served delicious fish tacos for $1 each. We ate a few for lunch then ordered more to go so we could have them for dinner.

Catavina

2005-10-28T11:33:00.000-07:00

We arrived at Rancho Santa Inez in Catavina late yesterday afternoon and, after eating in the small restaurant there, we enjoyed sitting around our campfire.

This morning Kai, Toni and I got up early to hike in the desert for awhile. The morning light was lovely on that grand scene of boulders and cacti.

Toni and Kai are dwarfed by this big cardon.

Laguna Manuela

2005-10-26T11:17:00.000-07:00

We left Santispac by 9:00 and stopped in Mulege to fill up our tanks and jugs with purified water before heading north. We've been using walkie talkie radios to communicate between our three rigs while driving. It's especially handy for calling out to the lead car "Need a pee break... pull over when you can".

Toni only has a 13 gallon gas tank, so sometimes she has to add fuel from one of her gas cans.

After stopping in Guerrero Negro for groceries, we drove north to Villa Jesus Maria. From there we headed west on a washboard road for several miles until we arrived at Laguna Manuela. We didn't venture too far out on the beach because Toni immediately got stuck in the sand. She was prepared though; she had brought 4 or 5 foot lengths of textured plastic runner which she placed behind the rear tires and she was able to back out.

Looking down the beach we noticed hundreds of gulls circling and saw a fish camp there. We walked down the beach and watched the men gut the fish and throw them in the back of their pickups. The sight of all those gulls circling over them was awesome and we later kicked ourselves for not having brought a camera along. There was also a pod of large dolphins swimming offshore.

Breaking Camp

2005-10-25T11:09:00.000-07:00

Today was our last full day at Bahia Concepcion. We spent much of it packing up, taking down the Tibetan prayer flags and other camp decor, and loading kayaks. It's been a mahh-velous 2 weeks here. No cooking tonight... we went to Ray's for another delicious calamari steak dinner. We will cross the border by October 30th because Kai needs to get back to Arizona to pack up for a diving trip - to Belize, I think.

Attack of the Jejenes

2005-10-24T11:00:00.000-07:00

Jejenes is Spanish for no-see-ums. There must have been a new hatch in the mangroves because over the past week I've been bitten at least 50 times on each arm and leg. Truth.

They come out in the late afternoon and evenings if there isn't a breeze. It's not as bad in my screen room but they eventually find their way in. We learned to put on long sleeves, pants and socks before dinner if there isn't a breeze. We talked to someone who used to camp here, but started staying elsewhere because of the jejenes. It's the mangroves on the lagoon I think. It's probably not a problem on the other side of Santispac.
There's usually more of a breeze by the water - keeps the jejenes inactive while we eat.

Creatures of the Back Lagoon

2005-10-23T20:42:00.000-07:00

There is a small lagoon behind our camp and the entrance is right next to our row of palapas. At low tide it's possible to walk back on the sand spit, though it's easier to explore by kayak at high tide. Donna and Toni found the hot spring back there but said it's pretty muddy and not very appealing.

There are four different types of herons that live in the lagoon. The Great Blue hangs out and fishes at the back, though once I saw him perched on top of our kitchen palapa. The Black Crowned Night Heron (or was it the Yellow Crowned?...hmm) comes at dusk to stand in the shallow lagoon entrance to fish.

There are about 6 or 8 Green Herons that fly out of the mangroves at dusk. Before taking flight, they squawk an explosive sharp 'skeew' that reminds me of Jurassic Park. Remember the flying flesh-eaters (can't recall their proper name) that eerily called out from the jungle?

Beach Fashion

2005-10-22T16:58:00.000-07:00

We all treated ourselves to ankle bracelets.

Beach dresses - Kai, Nony, Donna, Toni. This is the picture that made me resolve to lose 30 pounds.

Toni's Baja Birthday

2005-10-21T20:30:00.000-07:00

Today is Toni's 67th birthday so we went to Ray's to celebrate. We walked down the beach 1/2 mile to the restaurant and sat outside the palapa bar to enjoy a delicious dinner. Ray is originally from Cuba and, after visiting this bit of paradise, he moved here and opened a restaurant. He grows the organic vegetables that are served with dinner.
The food is fabulous! I ordered calamari steak and it was perfectly prepared. My mouth is watering as I write this - no kidding.

*** Toni, Kai, Nony and Donna at Ray's ***

When we returned to camp, we surprised Toni with the birthday cake that we had secretly picked up in town this morning. Kai had made her a mobile from shells she had collected on the beach. I gave Toni a bar of dark chocolate that I had been hoarding, since I knew that she is a (dark)chocoholic like me.

Kayak Explorations

2005-10-20T20:12:00.000-07:00

We paddled down the coast to check out some of the other camp areas and beaches. Just around the point from us there is a cliff with fancy-schmancy houses on top. We were told there is a hot spring below the white stairway leading down to the beach. Kai and Donna went ashore to look for it and found it, though it's too hot at low tide.

We continued around the next point and went to Eco Mundo, where they rent charming enclosed palapas furnished with beds. The rooms are cooled by fans powered with solar electricity and there are hammocks in front of the palapas. Tracy and her husband are the new owners and they also rent out kayaks and offer kayak tours of the area. We all love the logo on their t-shirts and tank tops, so we each purchased one.
Kai is sitting in front of Eco Mundo checking out the heron.

Just around the next point is Playa Escondida, a beach I would have liked to camp on. The road to this beach goes over a hump and is very rough and full of deep ruts, so it isn't suitable for rigs longer than about 24 feet with adequate clearance. I've only seen vans here or SUVs with tent campers. Most of the camping areas are right along the highway, so you get truck noise. One thing I like about Playa Escondida is that it's farther from the road and over a hill so road noise isn't an issue.
The quiet beach has several simple palapas providing shade at the water's edge.

Beach Scenes

2005-10-19T16:26:00.000-07:00

This is the mobile that Kai made for Toni's birthday.

Donna is enjoying the comfy hang-out that she and Toni created at their palapa.

One afternoon we heard a tune from our childhood and this ice cream truck came around the bend and drove down the beach. What a surprise!

These guys were out for a morning boat ride and cruised the beach and the lagoon behind camp.

Got Cake?

2005-10-18T20:09:00.000-07:00

Our house batteries got low after parking for a few of days without driving, so we went into town so the drive would charge them up a bit. We all have solar panels, but they don't seem to be able to keep up with the electrical demand. I have the all electric 4 cubic foot refrigerator in my Sportsmobile and that seems to be the big power draw in this heat. Usually my solar panels are able to keep the batteries charged up.

Toni's birthday is Friday and she stayed at camp today so we looked for a bakery to order a birthday cake for her. When we stopped at the ice cream store we asked the woman if she knew where we could buy a cake. She said there wasn't anyplace in town that sells cakes, but she would make one for us in her own kitchen. Great! We ordered a chocolate cake and told her we would be back Friday morning to pick it up.

Bird Island

2005-10-17T19:38:00.000-07:00

There are several small islands within a few miles of our beach. I don't know if they have official names, but we made up our own names for them. Our favorite is Bird Island because of the variety and abundance of birds. Pelicans, osprey, gulls, blue footed boobies, oyster catchers, etc. It's odd to see pelicans perched on the bluff amid cacti and other desert plants.

We paddle over there often with our binoculars and cameras. Donna and Kai did some snorkeling there too.

Spotted this oyster catcher hanging out with a pelicano.

This handsome osprey was eating a snack while perched on a cactus.

Bad Company

2005-10-16T19:35:00.000-07:00

There were a couple of days when our quiet little beach got invaded by undesireables. One couple in a pickup and camper set up camp near us and played loud country western music. He had started drinking in the afternoon and by evening he was drunk and singing loudly and off key. By 11:30 that night everyone else had gone to bed and he was still drinking and slurring bad singing. When I went over to ask him to please be quiet, he got surly so I said "Just shut up and go to bed you drunken fool". Surprisingly... he did. And fortunately they didn't stick around long.

Another couple had camped there the night before and they got into a fight and walked the beach that night yelling at each other. Arrgggh.

One family brought an a obnoxiously loud jet ski to their picnic. Otherwise they were nice people so we just took deep breaths until they left at the end of the day.

OK I'm just going to bitch about one more thing - the busload of German tourists who stopped for a swim and used one of our palapas for lunch. I know it sounds petty to complain but it felt so invasive. I mean like right next to us...a busload.

Aside from those couple days...tranquillity.

Personal Shoppers

2005-10-15T16:14:00.000-07:00

Roberta brought us homemade tamales and empanadas in the morning. When we were running low on tortillas and vegetables, she would bring those the next day. Kai and Toni used coolers to supplement their small refrigerators, so Roberta also brought them ice every day or two. She usually came early morning and if we were out kayaking, we would leave a grocery list and pesos and she would leave change and put the food in the cooler.

There was also a fellow who would bring shrimp, scallops and fish. We would buy a kilo of fresh shrimp and grill or sautee them with butter and garlic. We ate so much shrimp that I got tired of them.

~~~~~ The Dining Palapa ~~~~~